update 7
Sunday mornings in the square, no matter how sun-drenched, are apparently quiet. It's after 11, and the church organ signals the end of services. Interestingly, this group, people exiting the church, is the most racially diverse that I have seen in the town. While that doesn't really say very much, I think it does say something good about this church. There are the traditional older ladies, in alarming floral suits, and a couple of straw hats. The feathery pink delight from last week is, sadly, missing.
I have seen many good clothes, but not of the sort I would wear. For the most part the attire is staid, and actually remarkably similar to that we see daily (except that the older women are more likely here to cover their hair, and the kercheifed-Oma is common). The difference is in the cafe culture, in the time spend outside at little tables. Almost every little cafe has an outside area, and the busiest place I have seen is the ice cream parlor -- at all hours of the day!
I think that, in their longer history, what they have really learned is to savor the pleasantries. I think this lies behind the vast prevelance of bicycles, and the refusal to accept substandard food (all coffee is good coffee, for example). Certainly it lies behind their beer.
The do ignore history on one thing, thoough -- everyone here smokes, and I'm sorry, but it's gross. In addition to the nasty smell and the smoke blowing all over those of us who aren't smoking, there are these scary 1970's-esque cigarrette vending machings -- brownish horrors on street corners or attached to people's houses.
Another thing they do really well here are glasses, and since I need a new pair anyway, I think I'll get them here. Very hip, very stylish. And how is this for the embarrassment of the day -- I just had to log onto the wireless to ask if there were any cold coffees. The ridiculousness of it is utterly delicious.
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