update 6

Today the market square has all the stillness of a Sunday morning. I wonder what time the church service ends, and if it will suddenly flood the square on which it sits with voices and sound, the children abruptly freed from stillness. I can hear the organ inside, and think I will find out soon.

First come a pair of old ladies, in floral suits, and then a family of African descent, the mother wearing a wonderful pink cap with what look like feathers. The people seem to exit quietly, and the square is still muted. But now the church bells begin to ring the three quarters and a moped drives onto the square. Even it seems muffled; I wonder if the clouds are encouraging quiet. Voices are starting to echo, and perhaps it just needs a critical number of people to start their days. The congregation seems to be gather in front of the church, which doesn't face the main square, and only slowly are they spreading out. Still the birds are the loudest sounds, I am surprised.

Yesterday, this same square was teeming with people. The entire village, and all of the surrounding villages, turn out for market day. I am starting to feel more a part of the village life, and I see the the little old men with dogs (every family has one) and smile. My bicycle has a basket now, and that makes me feel less conspicuously different than usually. I ordered my bread in German, but was only able to do about half of my produce marketing in German before the vendor switched to English -- apparently red leaf lettuce in German is not Kopfsalat rot. Oh well, it was a reasonable attempt. The figs are gone from the market, their short season apparently over. I am saddened by this, because somehow the combination of figs and cheese is so utterly European and I have enjoyed it.

This morning I am too tired for German, and my waitress (not the normal one, but another one who knows me, also) reprimanded me a little for not trying. She told me that I should try to speak some German, because Jurg said ... (and then she got distracted). She is right, of course, but I haven't been studying as much as I need to and I'm exhausted today. My cheese-monger (I can't decided whether I am possessive of them, or the word cheese-monger, which I adore) told me (and then had to translate) that he thought my Deutsch was getting better and better -- every week, he said. I think this is not really true, but rather another example of the continental chivalry which I find alternately charming or irritating.

There is, without doubt, a feminist issue involved with being here. Yesterday, after having been here almost three weeks, I met the first other woman scientist at the institute (there must be others, but I have not seen them). I was told before I came here that women scientists were treated differently (Germany in particular) and that I should pay attention and be very clear in my credentials. Also, a colleague's 10-year old daughter, who is American, cannot play soccer in school here as she did in the US. It is considered too rough for girls. I think they do not really recognize the insidious danger of such things. It is really a very small step from there to "girls shouldn't do science" or some other such thing. I was, of course, reminded of the old doctrine of Kuche, Kiche, Kinder (yes, I brought Ms. Sayers with me). So, while I could not care less who wins the men's soccer, I want to American women to destroy them (unfortunately, the women's World Cup is next year, in China, so it will lack some of the force). Because, as I mentioned to the colleague, the American's are the only ones with any respect for their women's team. It is strange to be in such a situation, somewhat topsy-turvy. I think, now (as not before) that Title 9 may have been a very good thing, and that there is something to be said for the idea of athletes as ambassadors. I am more grateful to Ms. Chastain than I realized.

Deutschland won their match yesterday against Sweden and advanced to the quarterfinals. From the cheering one might have thought it was the finals. There were what seemed like all the cars in town driving in circles with people hanging out to wave the German flag and blaring their horns. And singing "Deutschland, Deutschland" with a long first syllable and lilting final. It went on for quite a long time, and between it and all the people (lots!) painted like (or wearing) the German flag, I almost wished they had lost. I wonder what will happen at the next round, and at the finals. Will the intensity increase with each victory? Will it last for a week if they win the Weldmeister? Or more?